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Irvine Class C Rv Roof Repair

Published Mar 13, 25
12 min read

Rv Trailer Rubber Roof Repair Irvine, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

While you're cleaning up, remove any debris or old roofing system material, but beware while you do this as you could easily elongate a tear, or even punch a hole through the roof covering. You need to after that dry the roof as best as you can. Keep In Mind: Rubber RV roofings can be really slippery when damp.

After the roof is clean, you are mosting likely to wish to check the joints for holes, splits or peeling, so you can reseal anywhere necessary. You'll desire to make a point of resealing all seams as soon as a year whether or not they reveal signs of wear.

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When it pertains to choosing the ideal recreational vehicle roof covering sealant, you'll want to consider whether you are repairing a tear, resealing a joint, or securing the whole roofing system. The kind of roof covering is likewise vital to bear in mind, as recreational vehicle roofings can be made from either EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) and TPO (Thermal Polyolefin) and you require the item you make use of to be suitable with your roofing type.

Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealer is an excellent option for going over old roof seals. It can be used for place sealing or to reseal every seam on the RV roofing system. Just clean the area well and apply with a caulk gun. The stuff will level itself out, so don't fret about that component.

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Similar to the EPDM system noted above, this finishing product will certainly cover your TPO roof and aid it last one more 10 years. Prior To EPDM and TPO, metal was the product of choice for Recreational vehicle roofs.

The aforementioned EternaBond is still king when it pertains to fixing small problems on a steel roofing system. It additionally functions well for sealing joints. Recreational vehicle metal roofs do require to be absolutely resealed every so often. Home roof coatings will certainly seal a steel roofing simply great, however the very best item by far, for steel roof coverings, is Dicor Metal RV Roof Coating.

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Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealer functions well for this work. You'll require to get rid of the present roof covering.

Do this in tiny chunks all along the roofing system, cutting openings in the rubber roof for any type of attribute that will certainly return right into the roof. Change your roofing's fans, skylights, and Air conditioner system. Seal each joint with the lap sealer we pointed out earlier. You'll likewise desire to apply lap sealer to the sides of the roof.

My motor home roof covering that needs to be changed! Invite to my Motor Home Restoration Collection!.?.!! So you want a RV but can't manage one. If you're like me and have even more time than money, then possibly your ideal option is to acquire an old motor home and repair it up. If you happen to find a really bargain, after that opportunities are it has water damages.

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I get it. I acquired my recreational vehicle over a year back and really did not have the intestines to begin tackling this task until today. However I'm here to tell you, if I can do it, you can do it. Can I really do it? Keep tuned and discover! I acquired this 1993 Jamboree for $5000.

I have actually never functioned on a Motor home before and I have to confess, I'm terrified. Hopefully if you're taking into consideration doing this yourself, complying with along on my Recreational vehicle roof replacement task will certainly offer you the guts to dive in! The devices I utilized today.

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I purchased a 12 x 26 SuperMax Canopy by ShelterLogic (over $450 on Amazon however I acquired mine from Northern Device for about $340!) and raised the legs with timber expansions to make the canopy high sufficient that I can stand on the roofing system and stroll below it. That appeared to be my most affordable choice.

I figured I prefer to have it semi-portable so I went with the canopy, plus this allows me to adjust the height backwards and forwards when I need to. Naturally the least expensive choice of all would be to simply toss an excellent tarp over the top of your recreational vehicle for rainy days and just work on sunny days! Originally I elevated the legs with 1 1/2 PVC pipe that fit inside the legs and after that I connected a tube clamp around the PVC pipe to stand up the cover legs.

Then I sawed 1 1/4 square legs from 24's to put inside the cover legs (once again holding the cover up with pipeline clamps.) and reinforcing the 4 edges with an added 24 screwed to it. This is still a little floppy. I most likely need to have forked out for some stiff steel pipe from the start.

Cracks in the EPDM roofing at side of camper. An old spot job on the motor home rubber roof. Loads of caulk stacked over old problem areas. As you can see, this roof covering has had a great deal of concerns over the years. Looking from the within of the camper there have clearly been leakages in lots of areas of the roof covering.

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I ordered an energy knife and started cutting. The initial thing I observed is that there were 2 layers. On the bottom is the initial EPDM rubber roof covering layer. I understand it's EPDM rubber and not TPO rubber as a result of the black support. (TPO roofing is white on both sides.) On top of my EPDM roof is a thin motor home roof covering finish that was applied later.

I just left the roof layer adhered to the EPDM roofing and pulled them up together. (You do not require to peel them up independently.) Beginning to remove roofing system coating. Peeling off up section of the bottom layer of rubber. This shows that the initial motor home roofing system was EPDM due to the black backing.

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I reduced lines with an utility blade around fixtures. All rubber roof removed from camper. This step went pretty rapidly. There was a sticky under the bottom layer of rubber that was still quite well embeded several places, however with an excellent little bit of pressure it peeled up easily.

Currently I could see all the harmed plywood roofing decking underneath. HEADS UP! You may not wish to peel off the rubber first! I selected to remove the rubber before getting rid of fixtures so I might see what I was handling. I have to caution you, the old adhesive was still sticky, and a pain to walk on.

If you assume you'll be saving the roof covering outdoor decking plywood (not replacing it), then you may conserve yourself some clean-up difficulty by removing the components initially and then peeling off up the rubber! Much more water harmed areas on RV roofing decking.

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I went with the easiest one first, a vent cap from a kitchen area sink pipes vent pipe. Beginning to scrape caulk and sealer. I utilized a rigid scrape with a chisel-like blade and simply began prying and chipping and scratching and hacking. There is nothing else method around this, you just need to start digging till you reveal the screw heads.

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Unscrewing the screws in vent cap. The screws on this air vent cap were hex-head metal screws so I utilized a little outlet chauffeur to eliminate them. Some came out clean. Others were rusted and I needed to utilize a vice-grip pliers to grab the heads and transform them gradually.

I uncovered an old wasp nest inside the vent cover. This is a view I'll possibly need to get made use of to, locating the remains of pet habitation in every nook and cranny. I spend an awful great deal of my time creating good wildlife environment in my yard so I don't obtain angered when an animal picks to set up home in my motor home.

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Fortunately nobody was home in this old nest so I just threw it. Possibly I'll put a screen over it when replacing it. Which brings us to the following point. You must try not to harm these items (like vent covers and caps) as you're scratching off the old caulk and sealant simply in case you require to utilize them once more.

One down, 7 even more components to go. Following I determined to deal with the only roof covering ventilation follower that my camper has - Irvine Class C Rv Roof Repair. My roofing air vent additionally had a vent cover over it. So I started scraping the gunk from those screws. Starting on the roofing vent. Equipment subjected on roofing system air vent cap, the very first nut came off clean.

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The fasteners on this RV roofing system air vent cover were nuts on tiny screws. The 2nd one just started rotating, meaning the screw was not dealt with in location however transforming along with the nut. A peek at the equipment holding down the roofing air vent cover.

I really did not have any type of good means to hold the bolt in place so instead I decided to saw with the screws with a reciprocating saw. Sawing through screws on roof covering vent cover. I made use of a cordless reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade but it was tricky to get the blade flat enough to get to the bolts so close to the roofing deck.

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Flexing the blade a bit to get to near the roofing deck. Once I had actually sawn with the remaining three bolts, I pried up the cover. The braces that were holding the cover in area. Cover gotten rid of from roof covering vent. After that I loosened the brackets from the flange of the air vent follower itself.

A lot of were so old and rusted that they sheared off when I loosened after that with a great deal of pressure. Loosening the brackets that held the air vent cover in place. I scraped more caulk and roofing system sealant off the flange of the roof vent itself. I soon discovered there were no more screws or hardware quieting so I offered up on the scraping and went inside the motor home After scratching the caulk and sealer from flange of roof vent, say goodbye to screws! Loosening the inside cover plate of roofing vent follower in motor home washroom.

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A pair sheared off with a great deal of pressure, yet 2 would not budge. I had to pierce out the screw heads. I picked a drill bit near the dimension of the shaft of the screws that I had already pulled out and started boring. Selecting a drill little bit for drilling out a screw head.

Rather of popping off the screw head, the plastic just melted away around the warm screw head. Hope I do not have to reuse this cover.

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As soon as the braces were out I went back up leading to tear out the the roof covering air vent. There are two cords running to the roofing air vent (a black hot cord and a white neutral cable) that you'll need to clip to get rid of the old vent.

These are the cables linking the roofing venting follower. I clipped them just over the blue splice joints. Roofing air vent removed and tidied up. After clipping the cable and removing the air vent, I cleaned up any staying goop and obtained my very first good take a look at the roof structure. It's steel! 1 1/2 inches thick.

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Some recreational vehicle roofs are framed with timber, others have steel framework. I had no concept what was in my camper up until this point. Not also happy concerning the quantity of corrosion on it, yet with any luck it is still structurally appear! I removed some rust and made a big mess inside the bathroom.

Oops. Possibly I need to have put a tarp down initially. My last goal of the day was to get the fridge vent cover off. I noticed recreational vehicle sealer balls at 4 factors on the cover so presumed there need to be screws under them. I pried them up and discovered Phillips screw heads.

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Revealing the screws in the refrigerator vent cap. Peeling old RV roofing system covering in addition to fridge air vent cap I also noticed that there was a coat of RV roof finish over the air vent cap. These coverings are painted on with a brush so clearly whoever did this layer simply blobbed in on top of whatever.

Raising off the cover of the fridge roofing system vent. When the cap is off it's more of the exact same. Removing much more rubber and scraping off recreational vehicle roof sealer and old caulk. Get comfortable because this fool has 32 screws in it! Ugh. Scuffing lap sealer and caulk from screw heads.

Some screws will be as well rusted and require pliers to remove. Tearing off the fridge roofing vent nevertheless screws are removed. (and the tools made use of.) Virtually every screw remained in great sufficient condition to remove with a socket motorist, yet a couple were as well corroded and required to be turned out with vice hold pliers.

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OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I peeled off the remaining rubber roofing from under the flange and then scratched off the old putty underneath. Scratching off the old putty from the flange of the fridge roof vent.

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