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Pop Up Camper Repair Near Me Fullerton

Published Jun 01, 25
11 min read

Pop Up Camper Repair Fullerton, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

The majority of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rain gutter) that the awning is glided into has retreated from the wall and turned a bit - Pop Up Camper Repair Near Me Fullerton. I'm thinking the fixing will require changing that whole length of gutter (10 feet?) and probably using larger scale screws to replace those that were taken out

We've got damaged brackets on our camper awning. Two months ago, we had a bad tire blow-out that caused a curved axle, major repair work, and so on, and we ask yourself if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy adventure before we realized the axle was in problem. We haven't had the awning out because it was in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime device, and so on, is fine. The back bracket assembly is great, yet the front one is split at the base and totally damaged through at the top, so that the top assistance arm no much longer fastens to the camper.

Does this audio affordable? Also the actual assistance arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a much heavier gray metal - it's the gray little bits that have actually cracked/broken. The real arms are totally normal/functionalI'm just intending to see to it we're not being absorbed out of our anxiety.

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The Motor home is a 2007, but we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand name new at that time. If nothing else, we would certainly such as suggestions as to just how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - possibly even get us through the summer - without having to place in a brand new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, however I 'd instead locate a quick and effective service. Any individual? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of replacing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to get rid of the fourth one, I require to remove the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to replace the rubber roofing and roof covering decking, I need to eliminate the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be gotten rid of to establish on the ground. I pulled these out. Pressing this lever launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally discover just how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires to come off first before the last actions of this message (revealing the front and back sides of the roofing system decking).

Here's a detail of just how the awning mounting braces are screwed into the camper. I really did not actually have to do this action till the awning was on the ground however I discovered this set screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the ideal end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.

Once both screws are removed, just draw back on the brace. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning placing braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Getting rid of the mounting bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the spherical edge at the rear of the roof covering.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning placing brace on the. Eliminating the installing bracket of the awning.

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To change the roof, this awning bar requires to be eliminated. If you're simply changing your awning and not repairing the entire roof covering like me, then you wouldn't require to remove the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to lower the whole awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently.

You may have to cut the end with an utility blade if it is wrapped under. Just yank it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. As soon as I started to pry off the awning rail, the whole thing suddenly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! When the screws are removed, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the side of the rubber roofing that was attached under it. As soon as you begin pulling the awning rail away it will suddenly snap free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're working alone like me then reduce it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs far from the camper on each side individually till you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and out of the way against the camper.

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After that I leaned the legs back versus the camper. Once the awning got on the ground I removed the little collection screw at the best end of the awning, (I eliminated the one at the left end previously.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just moves right off the canvas by gliding the entire rail to one side.

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As soon as the two set screws were removed I could move the entire awning rail straight off the awning. Another look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step prior to I can remove the old roofing system decking is to subject the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

The following point holding down the rv fiberglass house siding panels is the edge trim molding shown here. It has a plastic screw cover strip inserted, so once again I simply pried up the plastic insert and drew out sufficient so I might loosen some screw heads.

I might finish up removing it later on if I require to change the luan plywood below this fiberglass change. The roof outdoor decking plywood extends under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to replace it, this fiberglass transition must be lifted. To lift that, the edge molding need to be removed.

I might turn the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I could swing that item of edge molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.

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At that point I switched from a scraper to 6 inch broad taping blade. I loosened the other corner trim in the exact same way, and curved it sidewards just enough so that I could lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I found a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. I had a significant quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roof covering deck.

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It's simply standing out through the staples. Lastly the side of the roofing outdoor decking is revealed at the rear of the camper! OK! So I've revealed the roof substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to find the leading edge. Same bargain again. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I tore that layer up as well (there wasn't much stifling yet adhesive now) and afterwards I could yank out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Currently I can take out the last bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roof plywood!

When I scraped up a few of the broken bits I acquired a strong item of plywood and began to pull. The whole thing began to pull up easily intact without damaging the foam board insulation in any way. Currently I could see the steel framework underneath. Then the plywood started peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the base that signs up with the pieces with each other. I don't know how precisely they handled to adhesive every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, but it was nicely done. The items of roofing system ply are signed up with with each other at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly understood the roof was losing stamina and tightness as I pulled up the leading layer, so split it off prior to the very first seam. A close of the metal framing in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Below's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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I discovered a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a substantial amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

It's simply standing out via the staples. The edge of the roofing system outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually subjected the roofing system substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front edge. Same offer once more. Get rid of some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Again, I pried that layer up too (there had not been much stifling however adhesive now) and afterwards I might tug out the rest of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Pop Up Camper Repair Near Me Fullerton. Now I can draw out the last bit of rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. It was simply glued. So I started meticulously peeling it up. I might see heaven styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no bolts in all holding down the roof plywood! It is entirely glued.

As soon as I scratched up some of the broken little bits I obtained hold of a strong item of plywood and began to pull. The entire thing began to bring up easily unharmed without damaging the foam board insulation at all. Currently I can see the steel framing underneath. Yet then the plywood began peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that joins the pieces with each other. I do not understand just how exactly they managed to adhesive every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was perfectly done. The items of roof ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly understood the roofing was losing stamina and stiffness as I pulled up the leading layer, so split it off just prior to the very first joint. A close of the metal framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Below's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw into the roof.

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