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Garden Grove Pop Up Camper Canvas Repair

Published Jun 02, 25
11 min read

Camper Repair Shop Near Me Garden Grove, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the securing knobs tightened up down.) I really did not see anything wrong, but pulled back both awning just to be risk-free. The majority of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home the other day in the rainfall, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out. That's when I found that the rainfall seamless gutter had been pulled away from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It appears that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is glided into has pulled away from the wall and turned a little bit - Garden Grove Pop Up Camper Canvas Repair. I'm presuming the repair will require changing that whole size of gutter (10 feet?) and probably utilizing bigger scale screws to change those that were drawn out

We have actually obtained damaged brackets on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a poor tire blow-out that triggered a curved axle, major fixings, and so on, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy ride prior to we realized the axle remained in difficulty. We haven't had the awning out since it was in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring device, and so on, is fine. The back brace assembly is great, however the front one is split at the bottom and totally broken through at the top, so that the leading support arm no longer attaches to the camper.

Also the actual assistance arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? The real arms are totally normal/functionalI'm just wanting to make certain we're not being taken in out of our anxiety (Garden Grove Pop Up Camper Canvas Repair).

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, however we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand brand-new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would such as suggestions as to how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - perhaps also get us through the summertime - without having to put in a brand name brand-new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, however I would certainly rather find a fast and effective remedy. Anyone? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of replacing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to eliminate the fourth one, I need to eliminate the Motor home awning.

In order to change the rubber roofing and roof decking, I need to get rid of the awning. My Motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be eliminated to set on the ground.

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You'll likewise observe exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to find off first before the last actions of this article (revealing the front and back edges of the roof outdoor decking).

Below's an information of exactly how the awning placing braces are screwed into the camper. I didn't actually have to do this action up until the awning got on the ground but I noticed this set screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's an additional at the right end of the awning.) I went ahead and loosened it.

Once both screws are removed, merely draw back on the brace. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the RV awning placing brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the mounting bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the rounded corner at the back of the roof covering.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning placing bracket on the right. Removing the installing brace of the awning. When the mounting brackets are removed, it's time to eliminate the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is primarily much like a normal piece of light weight aluminum roof covering side trim molding except that at the bottom edge there is a circular track with a slot in it.

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To replace the roofing system, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. Right here's a check out the round network at the end of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Heads up! If you're just replacing your awning and not repairing the entire roof covering like me, then you would not require to remove the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to lower the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily. Currently it's similar to getting rid of the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Take out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you might have to reduce completion with an energy knife if it is tucked under the rail) and after that simply yank it out.

You might have to cut the end with an utility blade if it is wrapped under. Simply tug it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. Once I started to tear off the awning rail, the entire thing unexpectedly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Just know it's coming! As soon as the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the side of the rubber roof covering that was secured under it. When you start drawing the awning rail away it will instantly snap complimentary and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're working alone like me then lower it the ground bit by bit by strolling the legs far from the camper on each side one at a time until you can lay it on the ground. Then I flipped the legs back up and out of the method against the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail simply slides right off the canvas by gliding the whole rail to one side.

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As soon as the two established screws were removed I might slide the whole awning rail right off the awning. An additional look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed.

I pried them out as finest I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some rustic staples holding it down. I pried them out as ideal I could. The following thing holding down the motor home fiberglass home siding panels is the edge trim molding shown right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip inserted, so again I simply tore up the vinyl insert and pulled out sufficient so I could loosen some screw heads.

I may finish up removing it later on if I need to replace the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass transition. To raise that, the edge molding should be eliminated.

After that I can turn the trim mold off the side enough to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. When I could swing that item of edge molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.

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I changed from a scraper to a rigid 6 broad putty knife. This piece chipped out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to tear it up. Then I changed from a scraper to 6 inch wide taping blade. Then I loosened the other edge trim in the same way, and curved it sidewards simply enough so that I could raise the side of the fiberglass panel.

I located a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

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The edge of the roof decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I have actually revealed the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the front side.

Once again, I pried that layer up too (there wasn't much holding it down but glue now) and afterwards I might tug out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued beneath it. Currently I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. It was simply glued. So I began very carefully peeling it up. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing system plywood! It is completely glued.

As soon as I scratched up some of the broken bits I got hold of a solid piece of plywood and started to draw. The whole thing began to draw up cleanly in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I do not understand just how precisely they handled to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was perfectly done. The items of roof ply are collaborated at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly understood the roof was losing toughness and rigidity as I brought up the top layer, so cracked it off simply prior to the very first joint. A close up of the metal framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Below's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roofing system.

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I located a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. Which indicates I'll finish removing those corner trim items right down after all. Yet we'll reach that later on. I had a significant amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

The side of the roofing system decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roof substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the front side.

Once again, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling yet glue at this point) and after that I could yank out the rest of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Garden Grove Pop Up Camper Canvas Repair. Now I can take out the last bit of rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roof covering plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood!

Once I scuffed up a few of the busted little bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and started to draw. The entire point began to bring up easily unscathed without harming the foam board insulation in any way. Currently I can see the steel framing underneath. But after that the plywood began peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that joins the pieces with each other. I don't recognize exactly how exactly they took care of to adhesive every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, but it was nicely done. The pieces of roof covering ply are signed up with together at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I rapidly understood the roof was losing toughness and rigidity as I pulled up the leading layer, so fractured it off simply before the first joint. A close up of the metal framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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