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Camper Roof Repair Near Me Orange County

Published Jun 10, 25
11 min read

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OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the locking knobs tightened up down.) I really did not see anything wrong, but pulled back both awning just to be risk-free. Most campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out. That's when I uncovered that the gutter had been drawn away from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the appropriate hand end of the front awning.

It shows up that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (rain seamless gutter) that the awning is glided right into has actually pulled away from the wall and twisted a little bit - Camper Roof Repair Near Me Orange County. I'm assuming the fixing will require changing that entire size of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly utilizing bigger gauge screws to replace those that were pulled out

We have actually got busted brackets on our camper awning. Two months back, we had a poor tire blow-out that caused a curved axle, significant repair services, etc, and we question if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy adventure prior to we understood the axle was in problem. We have not had the awning out because it remained in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring mechanism, etc, is fine. The rear brace setting up is great, but the front one is broken at the base and entirely damaged through at the top, so that the top support arm no longer affixes to the camper.

Does this audio sensible? Also the real assistance arms are intact. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a heavier grey steel - it's the gray bits that have actually cracked/broken. The real arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply wishing to make certain we're not being absorbed out of our despair.

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one item is broken it needs to be totally changed? The RV is a 2007, yet we had rain damages in 2010 and the whole awning was brand-new back then. If absolutely nothing else, we would like recommendations regarding exactly how we can "jerry rig" this for some time - perhaps even get us with the summer - without needing to place in a brand name new awning! We're in a very major bind since we have a trip planned in mid June that is not optional and can not be changed or held off.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, but I prefer to find a quick and reliable service. Anybody? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of changing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to eliminate the 4th one, I require to eliminate the Motor home awning.

In order to replace the rubber roofing system and roof covering decking, I need to get rid of the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be eliminated to set on the ground. Initially I drew these out. Pressing this lever launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally observe how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires ahead off initially prior to the last actions of this message (subjecting the front and back edges of the roof covering outdoor decking).

Here's a detail of just how the awning installing brackets are screwed right into the camper. I didn't in fact have to do this step until the awning was on the ground however I saw this established screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the best end of the awning.) I went on and loosened it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, merely draw back on the brace. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the motor home awning placing braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Getting rid of the mounting brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the spherical corner at the rear of the roof covering.

Both lag screws removed from the awning mounting brace on the. Removing the placing brace of the awning.

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To change the roofing, this awning bar requires to be eliminated. If you're simply replacing your awning and not repairing the entire roofing like me, then you wouldn't need to get rid of the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to decrease the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly. Now it's simply like removing the side trim molding on the various other side of the camper. Take out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you might have to cut completion with an utility blade if it is put under the rail) and after that just tug it out.

You may have to reduce the end with an energy blade if it is wrapped under. Simply pull it out!

Once the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. Once I began to pry off the awning rail, the entire thing instantly broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! Once the screws are removed, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the side of the rubber roofing that was fastened under it. When you begin drawing the awning rail away it will instantly snap complimentary and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me then decrease it the ground little by little by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time up until you can lay it on the ground. I flipped the legs back up and out of the method against the camper.

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I leaned the legs back against the camper. When the awning was on the ground I got rid of the little collection screw at the ideal end of the awning, (I removed the one at the left end previously.) These screws keep the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just glides right off the canvas by sliding the entire rail away.

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When both established screws were removed I could slide the entire awning rail straight off the awning. One more look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action before I can get rid of the old roofing system outdoor decking is to reveal the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

I pried them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some corroded staples stifling. I pried them out as best I could. The next point holding back the motor home fiberglass exterior siding panels is the corner trim molding shown below. It has a plastic screw cover strip put, so once more I simply tore up the vinyl insert and pulled out enough so I could unscrew some screw heads.

I might finish up eliminating it later if I need to change the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass shift. To raise that, the corner molding should be gotten rid of.

I might turn the trim mold off the side enough to raise up the side of the fiberglass panel. When I can turn that piece of corner molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in place.

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I changed from a scrape to a stiff 6 broad putty knife. This piece cracked out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. Then I changed from a scraper to 6 inch wide taping knife. I loosened the various other edge trim in the very same method, and bent it sideways simply enough so that I could lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which means I'll end eliminating those corner trim items all the means down. We'll obtain to that later. I had a substantial amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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It's just popping via the staples. The edge of the roof covering outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! I've exposed the roofing substratum at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to locate the leading edge. Exact same bargain again. Eliminate some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I pried that layer up too (there wasn't much holding it down however adhesive at this point) and after that I might tug out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof plywood!

Once I scraped up some of the busted bits I obtained hold of a strong item of plywood and began to draw. The whole point started to draw up easily in one item without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel enhanced tape under that joins the assemble. I don't know how precisely they took care of to glue every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, but it was perfectly done. The pieces of roofing system ply are signed up with with each other at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly recognized the roof covering was shedding strength and rigidity as I brought up the top layer, so broke it off simply prior to the first seam. A close up of the steel framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Right here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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I discovered a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which suggests I'll finish getting rid of those edge trim items all the way down. We'll get to that later. I had a considerable quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roof covering deck.

The side of the roof outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I have actually revealed the roof covering substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front side.

Once again, I pried that layer up too (there had not been much quieting yet glue at this moment) and then I might tug out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Camper Roof Repair Near Me Orange County. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roof covering plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roof plywood!

As soon as I scuffed up some of the busted little bits I acquired a strong item of plywood and started to draw. The whole thing began to draw up cleanly unscathed without harming the foam board insulation at all. Currently I could see the steel framing below. But then the plywood began peeling up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that signs up with the pieces together. I do not recognize just how precisely they handled to glue whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was perfectly done. The pieces of roof covering ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly understood the roofing was losing strength and tightness as I drew up the leading layer, so cracked it off right before the initial joint. A close of the metal framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Below's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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